Diy cabinet painting ideas
“Eighty percent of every kitchen painting complaints are due to lack of surface prep,” Rick says, and you shouldn’t let yourself drop into that percentage. You’re looking to degrease months (and possibly years) of cooking splatters and kitchen oils so your paint will be sticking to a clean surface.
And for those of you who ponder you can just sand every that grime off—I see you. You can’t sand every that grime off. If you attempt, you’ll just be grinding every of that dirt correct into the wood.
Clean your kitchen cabinets thoroughly, using trisodium phosphate (TSP) cleaner to really get every that debris, oil, and grease off.
Remove cabinet doors, drawer fronts, and hardware.
You’ll be capable to paint every surface a lot more quickly if you take every of the cabinet doors and drawer fronts off their hinges before you start. To avoid one of the cruelest jigsaw puzzles you’ve ever done with reassembly, label each cabinet with a number, and give its corresponding door the same one.
(You’ll thank yourself later.) You'll also desire to remove every cabinet hardware.
Sand the cabinet surfaces.
"Sanding scuffs up the surface of the cabinet and opens up the pores of the wood for primers to sink in and create adhesion," says Rick. You can do this by hand if you’re a hero, but if you don’t desire your arm to feel love it might drop off in the first ten minutes, I’d recommend investing in a mechanical sander—or borrow one from a DIY-ing friend.
(Heads up: The removal of ancient paint can generate dust or fumes that own lead in them, so speak to your landlord before you start, or call LEAD for more information.)
Use wood filler to repair any nicks.
Look for any imperfections love nicks, holes, gouges, or scratches. Squeeze your wood filler into the imperfection, and spread it out with a putty knife.
Let it dry according to the wood filler directions before proceeding to the next step.
Collect your painting supplies.
The first step for painting kitchen cabinets is to collect your supplies, of course. You’ll need:
- A block or a mechanical sander
- TSP cleaner
- Masking tape
- Fine sandpaper (grit)
- Wood filler
- Bonding primer
- Top-coat paint (matte or glossy, your choice)
- TSP cleaner
- Coarse sandpaper (grit)
- A brush and a little foam roller
Rick Watson, the VP of product innovation at Sherwin-Williams, warns against blindly choosing the cheapest brushes and rollers: “If you finish up going with the dollar-store brushes and the $5 gallon of paint, it’ll glance love it.” Spend the time to vet each supply with your local paint store professional.
Sand the cabinets again.
Note: this step is strictly optional. But if you roll with the Type-A crowd (or you’re looking for a extremely professional-looking paint job), consider sanding the dry primer just to make certain there’s no grit, dust, or hairs from the brushes left behind. If you opt into this step, you’ll need fine-grain sandpaper—look for grit or above. Doing this additional step ensures a smooth finish.
Prime the cabinets.
Consult your paint store professional to be certain you own the correct primer for your job; laminate cabinets will need a slightly diverse helpful than wood cabinets.
And test a patch in an obscure section before you give everything a jacket. “If the primer fisheyes, meaning you see a bubble forming on the surface, that tells you your surface isn’t clean enough,” Rick says. While everything dries, pour yourself an icy beverage—you’ve already accomplished a lot!