Diy shelf bracket ideas
This UTÅKER bed can be stacked – so you purchase one bed, then can stack a second (and third) on top so that whenever you need additional sleep or seating space, it’s correct there, taking up no more space than a single bed. Glance, under it’s a daybed… but hold scrolling to see what else it can do.
Now (below), it’s two daybeds/sofas (think guests piling in, filling those seats). Hold scrolling…
Now it’s two singles…
Now it’s a double…
Or, of course, you could just purchase the one, and you’ve got a cheap single bed…
Bedside tables are extremely fortunate if they make it into a little bedroom (although don’t miss this DIY bedside table, made with an Ikea hack).
Yes they are invaluable, but if you are working with a tiny space there simply might not be room. But you need a bedside light right? Well the answer is to wall mount it!
Copy this thought by taking a Ekby Valter shelf bracket (they are just two quid) and wrapping around a lamp cord, there is already a hole in the top of the bracket for you to thread it through, add a nice warm bulb and voila.
Fitting shelves into an alcove
Alcoves, especially those on each side of fireplaces, can often be awkward spaces to use effectively.
One solution is to fit shelves into them — you can fit shelves from floor to ceiling or just above a piece of furniture positioned in the alcove — making your own shelves means you can fit whatever suits your needs.
One grand advantage of fitting shelves into an alcove is that battens can generally be fitted to the side walls to support both ends of each shelf leaving each shelf unobstructed by wall brackets etc. Ordinary planed timber (50x18mm (2x¾ inch) can be used for the battens and will be strong enough for most shelves — where a stronger shelf is needed, a wooden batten can be fitted along the back of the alcove and/or attached to the underneath of the front edge of the shelf — if using chipboard or mdf for the shelves, a batten on the back wall and under the front edge is a excellent thought to prevent warping over time.
An alternative method to support shelving, explained under, is to use metal angle attached to the walls — this can give a ‘cleaner’, more ‘minimalist’ look.
Create an alcove office
In little spaces, alcoves can’t be ignored! Put that space to use and use Ikea furniture to assist you. This thought is super simple, just pick out some Ikea shelf brackets and shelving and use them to create a desk and some office storage.
If you desire to customise the size and glance, you could pop below to a hardware store and purchase some planks of planed timber.
Cut them to the perfect size to fit your alcove and mount them using the Ikea brackets.
For loads more simple alcove ideas that are perfect for little spaces, head over to our dedicated feature.
DIY a wallpaper headboard
Headboards are beautiful, but when space is tight they can take up just a little bit too much room, so DIY one with some wallpaper! We love how this banana leaf print looks framed by the iconic Gjora bed – a super simple way to make a extremely favorite piece of Ikea furniture glance love your own.
For more DIY headboards head over to our feature.
Metal Angle supports — an alternative for alcove shelving.
Rather than using wooden support battens for alcove shelving (as described above), an alternative is to use metal (such as aluminium) angle to form a support ledge along the sides, and sometimes the back, of an alcove to support the shelving as shown correct.
The basic method of positioning and fixing the metal angle is identical to that described above for when using wood battens i.e.
- Measure, cut, drill, position, drill the side walls and repair the side supports using dome head screws. When measuring for the side supports, make allowances for a front support batten, if one is going to be fitted. The shelving can be secured to the supports using screws from underneath, in this case, the required holes should be drilled in the metal angle before they are fixed to the wall.
- Mark the positions of the wall screws along the edges of the shelving and then cut recesses in the bottom edges of the shelf so that it will clear the screw heads — only recess the shelving immediately next to the screw head positions, this will permit the shelf to be fitted from above.
- Measure and cut the shelving material to fit within the metal angle ledge — but it won’t fit because of the dome head screws !.
- Measure, cut, drill, position, drill the rear wall and repair the back support using dome head screws.
- Fit a timber front support batten if needed as described above.
- Fit the shelf from above onto the supports and, if required, secure it using screws from under.
If you live in a tiny home, you will be every too familiar with Ikea furniture. It is a life saver for every us little space dwellers. Now we aren’t about to throw any shade at Ikea – we love Ikea, every fans of Ikea here – but you can discover that, as you start to fill your little put with every this gorgeous Scandi flat pack furniture, it does start to glance beautiful much love every other space on Instagram.
Well fear not because that is where these hacks come in. Little ways to make your Ikea furniture feel more love. yours. So hold scrolling for five simple ways to add some personality to your space (using your super affordable Ikea furniture).
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Using timber supports.
Fitting the side supports.
- Decide on the vertical position(s) and the depth (from the front edge to the back wall) for the shelves — generally, the higher and lower shelves are deeper and the vertical gap is greater than those nearer chest level. But a nice thing about DIY is that you can decide what size shelves to own and where to position them.
- Drill the wall to take the fixings — on masonry walls use suitable wall plugs and repair the batten using screws which enter the wall at least 38mm (1½inch) — on timber frame walls, just drill though the plaster board then use screws which will enter the frame work at least 38mm (1½inch).
- Offer up one of the side battens along the side of the alcove at the required height so that the back finish is about 12mm (½ inch) away from the back wall and use a spirit level resting on top to determine the position. Mark through the fixing holes in the batten on to the wall.
- The side battens need to be about 38mm (1½ inch) shorter than the depth of the shelving (i.e.
width of the plank).
The back finish, needs to be cut square across the timber, while the front finish is cut at an angle so that, when it is against the side of the alcove, the front edge recedes — this will generally give a better appearance than if the front finish were just cut square. Alternatively, if a support batten is to be fixed to the underside of the shelf, the side batten can be square cut shorter so that the front finish will be covered by the support batten.
Both of these are shown in the figures to correct.
- Drill clearance holes in the side battens to suit the fixings being used. For masonry walls, equally space the fixing holes along the centreline of each batten — with timber frame walls, check the spacing of the vertical wall members and drill the batten to suit. If the clearance holes need to be counter-sunk, this will make then ‘handed’, so check that the correct side is countersunk — however, if you do counter-sink the incorrect side, there’s probably no waste of material as ‘the incorrect side’ will be hidden against the side wall. if the front is cut at an angle.
2 fixing holes in a side batten will generally be adequate unless the shelf is exceptionally deep, it will carry a heavy load or the side walls are feeble.
Tip: If the battens will be painted, rub them below and apply primer/ undercoat before fixing them to the walls — after fixing them in put, cover the screw head recesses with filler and apply top jacket paint.
- Use a batten cut to the width of the alcove, or the shelf itself, to get the position for the batten on the other side of the alcove — use a spirit level on top of the batten/shelf to make certain this second batten is level with the first. Mark through the fixing holes in the batten on to the wall.
- Fix the second batten in the same way as the first.
Fixing a rear batten support
If a batten along the rear of the alcove is needed:
- Measure the width between the two side battens and cut a batten to about 12mm (½inch) under this measurement.
- Offer up the batten against the rear of the alcove and level each finish to the top of the side supports. Mark through the fixing holes on to the rear wall.
- Drill and, if necessary, countersink fixings holes equally spaced along the centreline of the batten as appropriate:
(Masonry walls) For shelves taking light weight, space the holes no more than about 450mm (18 inches) apart (with the finish holes about 225mm (9 inches) in from the ends) — for heavy loads, space the holes no greater than about 300mm (12 inches) apart (with the finish holes about 150mm (6 inches) in from the ends).
(Timber frame walls) Space the holes to suit the vertical members.
- Drill wall and repair the batten as described above for the side supports.
Fitting the shelf.
The sides of the alcove may not be parallel and this may need to be taken into account when cutting the material for the shelves, at each shelf position:
- Measure between the side walls both at the back wall and the front. If the sides of the alcove are significantly out of parallel, an adjustable square may be needed to establish the angle required for each finish of each piece of shelving.
- Normally there is no need to secure the shelving to the battens — the weight of the shelf and what it supports will hold it below.
However, for a ‘light’ hold, fit a couple of panel pins through each finish of each shelf so that they just enter the side battens — drill the ends of the shelf to take the pins and just tap them in.
For a stronger hold, drill each finish of the shelf so that a screw can be screwed downwards into the side battens.
- Mark out the shelving as measured and cut to size.
- When fitting a support batten to the underside of the front edge of a shelf, measure across the front of the shelf between the sides of the alcove and cut a support batten to size — providing that the shelf is fairly ‘heavy duty’, and the load not extremely heavy, a piece of 50x18mm (2x¾ inch) planed timber glued and screwed edge-on to the shelf will suffice.
NOTE: when the shelf is above eye level, using this method of fixing is visually un intrusive but when the top of the shelf is visible, any exposed screw heads will not glance extremely nice.