Diy wood clock ideas
What do cats scratch? Most cats are attracted to anything with a nubby, rough or textured surface, or something they can really sink their claws into.
When do they scratch? When they wake up from a nap, when they desire to mark their territory or when they’re excited about something, love you coming home from work.
How do they scratch? Some cats love to stand up against a vertical surface; others get horizontal and stick their butts in the air for a excellent stretch.
Why declawing is never the solution
Make it clear
Location, location, location
Put the posts where your cat wants them — love next to their sleeping spot for a quick stretch after a nap or by the front door for a really intense session after they greet you.
Put posts in prominent spots on each level of the home so they don’t own to go far to indulge.
Once your cat is regularly using their post, you can move it little by little to where you’d love it. But, really, why tempt fate? Better to leave it in their favorite spot so they leave your favorite things alone.
Scolding your cat only works if you catch them scratching an off-limits object.
If you attempt to punish them after the fact, they won’t know what they’ve done incorrect and could study to fear you. Never yell at or hit your cat as punishment: they may start to avoid you altogether.
Negative reinforcement isn’t the answer.
If you do catch your cat shredding a «naughty spot,» interrupt them by making a noisy noise (clap your hands, shake a can of pennies or pebbles, slap the wall) and redirect their scratching to one of the acceptable items. Do this consistently to teach them «sofa bad, post good.»
Cats who are sedentary may not wear below their claws through exercise and their nails can become overgrown.
Left untrimmed, claws can grow into your cat’s paw pads, leading to infection, pain and difficulty walking or using the litter box. Check your cat’s claws every couple of weeks to see if they need to be clipped.
Directions for trimming cat claws
Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado. Every rights reserved.
Despite the advantages of engineered flooring, some homeowners still prefer solid wood.
“There’s something about a solid hardwood that’s a tangible difference,” says Miller. “You can feel it underfoot, and it’s quieter.”
Don’t scratch here
Once you’ve figured out your cat’s preferences, you’re halfway to the finish line.
Scratching behavior depends mostly on texture, so cover off-limits spots with things your cat will discover unappealing on their paws, love double-sided sticky tape or aluminum foil.
Many cats don’t love the odor of citrus or menthol. In cases with non-fabric surfaces, attempt attaching cotton balls soaked in cologne or a muscle rub to the places you desire them to leave alone.
You may own to hold these items in put for a few weeks or months, or until your cat is using scratching posts consistently.
When the time comes, remove them one at a time.
Scratching deterrents on
Cats just desire to own fun
Scratching posts and pads are available in every shapes, sizes and materials.
But if you’re feeling industrious, you can easily discover DIY building plans online or attempt one a homemade alternative using these tips:
- A sturdy, rope-covered upright post; a flat scratch pad of corrugated cardboard, the back side of a carpet square or a little log with the bark still on can make excellent scratching pads (just be certain that wood hasn’t been treated with chemicals before bringing it inside)
- Rub a little catnip into the post or attach a toy to the top to make it even more attractive.
- A scratching object can be free-standing, lie on the floor or hang from a doorknob.
Experiment to discover out what your cat prefers or, even better, provide a variety of scratching objects in diverse places and positions.
- Praise your cat for using the post or any other object that is acceptable for them to scratch.
Scratching Posts on
Consider Wood Types
In North America, oak is the king of hardwood flooring for excellent reason.
“It’s a extremely durable wood that takes stain extremely well,” says Jones. It also has an appealing natural grain and is widely available across the region, leading to reasonable prices. In design circles, white oak is especially favorite, because it doesn’t own the pinkish tones of red oak.
Walnut is another a favorite choice. While slightly softer than oak, it has a deep color that makes it ideal for rooms where a darker finish is desired.
“If you’re changing a color, it’s best to start with a natural material that you’re augmenting as little as possible to achieve the shade you want,” says Caroll. Walnut, he adds, is a natural choice when you desire “a richer, warmer tone.” Other readily available North American hardwoods include hickory, cherry, maple, and ash. The choice largely comes below to personal preference in terms of color and grain.
Select the Type of Finish
There's a whole spectrum of finishing products, says Jones, from penetrating oil to oil-like hybrids to site-finish polyurethanes to prefinished UV-cured urethane finishes.
But to simplify, most finishes drop into one of two categories: oil or polyurethane.
Oil penetrates the wood and has a glance and feel “that’s extremely soft, matte, and natural,” says Caroll. But it isn’t as impervious to stains and damage as polyurethane, which creates a hard topcoat on the surface of the wood that’s “more resilient to wear and tear, especially for people with children, or when food is flying around the kitchen.”
Oil finishes scratch more easily, but also make scratches less noticeable. “They’re also simple to touch up on a spot-by-spot basis when there’s a problem,” says Caroll.
“With polyurethane, you generally need to replace a board or buff and recoat an entire section of floor.”
“Maintenance is a pay-me-now-or-pay-me-later proposition,” says Jones. “With a soft oil finish, you own easier maintenance, but you own to do it more often. The harder you go with polyurethanes, the less often you own to do maintenance, but the more involved the maintenance is to do.”
Select Prefinished or Site Finish
Hardwood planks can be purchased with a raw face that gets finished by a professional after installation, or prefinished, which arrives with the stain and topcoat already applied. The advantage of prefinished wood is that “you know exactly what you’re getting,” says Caroll, noting that once you select a product, you’ll own an exact sample to use in coordinating your home’s color palette and choosing other design elements, such as textiles, wall coverings, and cabinetry.
Prefinished flooring also takes less time to install, because there's no need to apply color or sealant. “When you select to do a site finish,” he adds, “you’re rolling the dice a little bit, and relying on the skills of the flooring contractor to get it right.”
Still, on-site finishing allows for a level of customization that appeals to numerous homeowners and designers. “That way, we own a lot more control over the stain and sheen,” says Miller. The final product will be smoother too, notes Miller, because unfinished flooring is typically sanded after it’s nailed below and then finished as a single continuous plane.
“It’s a little detail,” she says, “but it does make a difference.”